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MY BRAZILIAN SUGAR CANE ODYSSEY

Aug. 1, 2025

Cachaça

Interview

With Hanna Köhler

My journey into the world of spirits began, as many do, behind the bar. But it wasn't just mixing drinks; it was about finding the stories within each bottle. My heart found its home with rum, particularly during my time at The Rumah in Rotterdam, where I shared the magic of sugar cane with fellow enthusiasts. However, a curiosity lingered: Cachaça, Brazil's national spirit, remained an enigma. So, I embarked on a six-month adventure, a deep dive into the heart of Brazilian sugar cane, to understand and share the soul of this captivating spirit.

 

My Brazilian Sugar Cane Odyssey picture

Falling for Rum, Diving into Cachaça
My passion for rum was a slow burn, ignited by each new discovery. But the more I learned, the more I realized a significant gap in my knowledge—and in the global spirits landscape—existed: Cachaça. The lack of accessible information outside Brazil fueled my desire to explore its origins. I knew I had to go to the source.

My preparation began long before landing in Brazil. I devoured books, connected with producers, and researched relentlessly. Thanks to my collaboration with Barts Bottles during my time at The Rumah and at Cachaça Day events, I had a supportive network. I am very grateful to Arden and the Barts Bottles team for giving me this platform to share my journey.

My expedition took me through 13 Brazilian states, visiting distilleries, shops, and bars. I tasted countless cachaças, asked endless questions, and immersed myself in local traditions. My driving force was pure curiosity: how does the culture of each “cachaçaria” impact the final product?

Despite cachaça's protected Geographical Indication and production laws, the individuality of each producer shines through. Brazil's vast diversity is beautifully reflected in its cachaças. An intriguing aspect is the use of over 40 native wood types for aging, each imparting unique flavors. Experiencing the interplay of these woods was a constant delight.

Immersive Learning at Novo Fogo
My time at Novo Fogo was a transformative experience. I participated in every production stage, from cutting cane to hand-labeling bottles. Learning from their dedicated team for two weeks was an incredible privilege. It helped to demystify the process.
As spirits enthusiasts, we often romanticize production. However, I learned that many small producers continue their craft simply because it’s their heritage. This doesn't diminish the beauty of their product; it strengthens it, reflecting their history and community.

Cachaça's Historical Struggle and Potential:
Cachaça, despite its rich history and cultural importance, has been historically undervalued. Since colonial times, Brazilian spirits have been overshadowed by European imports.

I believe that when Brazilians embrace their cachaça with the same pride they have for their music, football and carnival, the world will follow. Cachaça, the world's third-largest spirit category, sees less than 1% of its production exported. Imagine the possibilities! However, the challenge lies in ensuring that smaller producers can thrive in a potential global boom.

My journey through Brazil has been a profound education in the art and soul of cachaça. It's a spirit that deserves to be celebrated, a testament to Brazil's rich culture and diverse landscape. I hope my experiences inspire others to explore this remarkable spirit. 

 

@hannakohler
@novofogo

 

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